Malibu on a clody day
A sunny day in the front yard, Paradise Cove at low tide
My Real Estate company Logo
Malibu has many hidden wonders. You have to take time to discover the splender around you.
Malibu Surfrider Beach doesn’t always have waves. It always has beauty, Day & Night
In the early seventies from Monterey Park where I went to Mark Kepple High School, I came to Malibu to surf with my senior class vice-president Fred Ryan. It was December and Malibu being a south facing beach normally doesn’t get much in the way of good surfing during the winter. I didn’t know.
I just had surfed for many years prior to that, mostly Orange County, and could get waves almost anytime as I would drive until I found a good spot. Sometimes that drive took me all the way to San Diego but I was always able to get some surf. We paddled out to a very flat Surfrider line up with almost no one else in the water. Everyone else knew that this was not a time to surf Malibu. I was new. With not much in the way of surf I wondered what all the Malibu hoopla was about.
I knew it was often featured in Surfer Magazine and all other surf publications. Being an inlander I understood and lived vicariously through photographs of awesome waves and fantastically talented surfers. I was envious of the kids that got to surf everyday and how good they got at it. I wanted to be that good.
I saw pictures of J. Riddle, Alan Sarlo, Wayne Uknowa, Willy Morris, Nate Young, J Adams, Ronnie Jay, Billy Urbany, Buttons’, Micky Dora, Angie Reno, Nathan Pratt, Mike Marsillino, Dave White, Mike Lamb, Tobby Lamb, Jefferson (Zuma J) Wagner, John Baker and many others. Some old timers and some in my age group.
In about 1976 I was working in Culver City with my Grandfather Abe (wild Bill) and I started driving everyday up the coast to Malibu to surf after work. I was a pretty good goofy-footed surfer. I was now surfing almost exclusively right hander, right peelers at Malibu Pier, Surfrider, third point. This means that my back is facing toward the wave instead of my front. Most surfers find this slightly more challenging than surfing regular footed, front sided.
I found as the surf was really great here most of the time. I also discovered there is many, sometimes hundreds of other surfers in the water almost everyday. Many who I had seen in the magazines. Professional surfers who were so good that many times I was just satisfied to watch them ride instead of me. I also found that there was a group of surfers that surf there everyday just as I was now doing.
I learned about what it means to be a local and surf with the same group at the same spot regularly. After about two years of getting teased about my boards, my surfing style, and everything else, I began to make some really good friends. I was now able to get the waves I wanted without being snaked by someone. I had built a reputation that I was going to be there and that I was someone who was regular and they needed to deal with me weather they liked it or not.
That doesn’t mean that I got every wave I wanted. I was able to get the ones that I was positioned correctly for and the other experts who knew me, knew I was going to make the sections and not waste the wave, therefore they let me go ahead. There was always a few guys that were so much better than me that they could take off in front of me and never fall and always really tear the waves apart. Unfortunately they left in there wake a big trough that was very difficult to surf around, over or through.
Alan Sarlo was just such one of these guys. He was also one of my heros. He is a local Venice surfer and skater who was determined to be one of the top surfers in the world. His reputation got around the whole world that he was is awesome, and really kills the waves. He earned the nickname Wave Killer. He and a few of the well known photographers in the surfing world have recently made a movie, documentary about his life, career, family and successes. ‘Work to Surf’ is a great explicative about choosing a life style and being devoted and creating success.
I am happy to say he is a friend of mine and I am very proud that he has been honored with a movie about his life. I don’t know what kind of distribution there is going to be with this just released movie but If you get a chance to see it, I highly recommend you do.
Besides being a friend he is a role model to me. He decided what he wanted. He worked to achieve his goal. He did not put the work in front of living life as he so chose. He organized his life so that he could work to live his passion. The surfing world over time recognized his talent and he became a leader in the surfing world. At the same time he created a successful career, family and home and he never left his passion behind.
That is why he is a role model for me. It doesn’t matter that he is slightly younger than me. It is a matter that his choices have brought he and his family the type of lifestyle that they have chosen.
Life is all about choices we make on a daily basis. Where we live, what we do for family, health , Income, recreation, sports, activities, friends, neighbors and community. These elements combined with many other elements are some of the important contents of our lives. How we act and what we do will be the creator of our lives, of all our resultsand the happiness that comes to each and every one of us.
What are you doing to create your life?
Where do you live?
Are the choices you have made bringing you the results you want?
What can you do different to live the life you want?
What is it going to take to fulfill your dreams?
I want to suggest that every person has the ability to live the life they choose. I am talking to you. You to can ‘Work to Surf’ or Ski or walk on the beach, or fish, kayak, skin dive, scuba dive, swim, read, go to school, walk/beachcomb with the pooch, act, paint, write, love, raise children, spend family time, cook, shop, design everything/anything. That’s the idea for life. We are not here long. We only have one chance here that we are positive about. Now that’s a whole other topic.